Optimized multiherbal combination and in vivo anti-skin aging potential: a randomized double blind placebo controlled study

The present study aimed to optimize a multi-herbal combination exerting the greatest antioxidant property using statistical method for anti-skin aging application as well as to elucidate its in vivo safety and anti-skin aging potential. The multi-herbal combination was optimized using a two-level, full factorial approach by exploring the correlation between the concentrations (0–3%w/v) of three extracts from Centella asiatica (CA), Momordica cochinchinensis (MA), Phyllanthus emblica (EM). An anti-skin aging emulsion containing the optimized combination was then developed and evaluated for its physicochemical characteristics with its stability under storage conditions. The in vivo anti-skin aging potential of the emulsion was subsequently investigated among 60 women in a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Skin hydration, elasticity and wrinkles at eye and cheek areas were measured at baseline, after 30 and 60 days of application. Before performance testing, in vivo skin irritation was evaluated using the patch test and homogeneity between groups was also statistically analyzed. According to the model describing the significant main effects of each extract and interaction effects between extracts on percent inhibition against DPPH radicals, the best multi-herbal combination consisted of 3%w/v EM and 3%w/v CA. The developed emulsion containing the combination presented smooth soft texture with good stability in terms of physical characteristics and biological property. Regarding the clinical study, no skin erythema and edema was reported among in all volunteers. After 60 days of application, significantly improved skin hydration, elasticity and wrinkles were observed in the test group. In addition, significantly reduced wrinkles were observed after 60 days in both skin areas of the test group. The anti-skin aging emulsion containing this optimized combination exhibited good safety and performance. Ultimately, this product comprises an effective anti-skin aging formulation for applications.