In search of the perfect tan: Chemical activity, biological effects, business considerations, and consumer implications of dihydroxyacetone sunless tanning products

As the desire and popularity of a tanned appearance continues, the social effects of UV‐free tanning are becoming more important. Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) has seen extensive use as the main tanning agent in sunless tanners. The DHA‐induced tan is a result of brown melanoidins formed by a non‐enzymatic Maillard reaction between DHA and amino acid species found in the stratum corneum. DHA, thereby, provides a safer route to a tanned appearance compared with exposure to ultraviolet radiation. However, DHA is a highly reactive molecule, posing a multitude of challenges for potential product formulations. With their increased use, the safety considerations of topically applied DHA tanners have been investigated. Many different vehicles have been used for topical delivery of DHA, and they are becoming increasingly multifunctional. This review provides a holistic overview of dihydroxyacetone sunless tanning products.