α-ionone promotes keratinocyte functions and accelerates epidermal barrier recovery

BACKGROUND: As a common fragrance ingredient, α-ionone is widely used in cosmetics, perfume, and hygiene products. Nevertheless, little information is available for its biological activities on the skin. In this study, we investigated the effect of α-ionone on keratinocyte functions associated with skin barrier repair and further evaluated its skin barrier recovery capacity to explore its therapeutic potential for the treatment of skin barrier disruption. METHODS: The effect of α-ionone on the keratinocyte functions including cell proliferation, migration, and production of hyaluronic acid (HA) and human β-defensin-2 (HBD-2) were examined in vitro using human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) as experimental model. The barrier recovery effects of topical hydrogels containing 0.1% or 1% α-ionone were tested on the volar forearm of 31 healthy volunteers by measuring transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and stratum corneum (SC) hydration following barrier disruption induced by repeated tape-stripping. The statistical significance was evaluated by one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA) followed by a Dunnett’s post-hoc test. RESULTS: α-ionone promoted HaCaT cell proliferation (P<0.01) dose-dependently in the 10 to 50 µM range. Meanwhile, it also increased the intracellular cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) levels (P<0.05). Furthermore, HaCaT cells treated with α-ionone (10, 25, 50 µM) showed enhanced cell migration (P<0.05), up-regulated gene expression of hyaluronic acid synthases 2 (HAS2) (P<0.05), HAS3 (P<0.01), and HBD-2 (P<0.05), and enhanced production of HA (P<0.01) and HBD-2 (P<0.05) in the culture supernatant. These beneficial actions of α-ionone were abrogated by cAMP inhibitor, suggesting that its effects are cAMP-mediated in HaCaT cells. In vivo study showed that topical application of α-ionone-containing hydrogels accelerated the epidermal barrier recovery of human skin after barrier disruption by tape stripping. Treatment with hydrogel containing 1% α-ionone resulted in a significant increase of above 15% in the barrier recovery rate at day 7 post-treatment when compared to the vehicle control (P<0.01). CONCLUSIONS: These results demonstrated the role of α-ionone in the improvement of keratinocyte functions and the epidermal barrier recovery. These findings suggest possible therapeutic application of α-ionone in the treatment of skin barrier disruption.