Development of a method for evaluating skin dullness: A mathematical model explaining dullness by the color, optical properties, and microtopography of the skin

BACKGROUND: Skin dullness has long been a major concern of Japanese women. It is usually evaluated and judged visually by experts. Although several factors are recognized to play a role, it is unclear to what extent such physiological characteristics contribute to skin dullness. The purpose of this study is to establish an objective method for evaluation, which will assist in developing cosmetics products targeting skin dullness. METHODS: We conducted a skin measurement study on 50 Japanese women in their 30–50s, where skin dullness was visually assessed by a group of experts to obtain an average dullness score, and several skin parameters were obtained. We then developed a regression model that explains the visual assessment score using these physiological parameters. RESULTS: The results of partial least squares analysis of the dullness perception and physiological characteristics showed that skin dullness can be defined by colorimetric, optical, and skin surface microtopography parameters. Additionally, the contribution of each parameter to the model was determined. Our results suggest that dullness perception is highly affected by the melanin content and yellowness of the skin, followed by skin reddishness, roughness, and translucency score, whereas glossiness has less effect. Strikingly, the contribution ratio of each parameter varied among age groups. Furthermore, we confirmed that the predicted value of skin dullness increases with age. CONCLUSION: Our results will help the design of cosmetics targeting factors specific to age groups in developing effective solutions for skin dullness.