Encapsulation of alpha arbutin, a depigmenting agent, in nanosized ethosomes: Invitro and invivo human studies

Alpha arbutin is a skin-whitening agent in cosmetics. Structurally, it is 4-hydroxyphenyl-α-glucopyranoside. Ethosomes encourage the formation of lamellar-shaped vesicles with improved solubility and entrapment of whitening agents. The objective of this study was to fabricate an optimized nanostructured ethosomal gel loaded with alpha arbutin for the treatment of skin pigmentation. Different ethosomal suspensions of alpha arbutin were prepared by the cold method. Invitro evaluation included zeta potential, droplet size analysis, polydispersity index, entrapment efficiency (EE), scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. Stability studies of the optimized ethosomal and control gels were performed for three months under different temperature conditions. The optimized ethosomal gel loaded with alpha arbutin was further analyzed on human volunteers for skin benefits by measuring melanin level, moisture content and elasticity. It was concluded that the optimized formulation had a size, zeta potential, polydispersity index and entrapment efficiency of 196.87 nm, −45.140 mV, 0.217 and 93.458343%, respectively. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) depicted spherical ethosomal vesicles. Stability data was obtained in terms of pH and conductivity. Rheological analysis revealed non-Newtonian flow. The cumulative drug permeated for ethosomal gel was 78.4%. Moreover, encapsulation of alpha arbutin causes significant improvement in skin melanin, moisture content and elasticity. The overall findings suggested that the arbutin-loaded ethosomal formulation was stable and could be a better approach than conventional formulation for cosmeceutical purposes such as for depigmentation and moisturizing effects.