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Application of Empirical Wave Run-Up Formulas to the Polish Baltic Sea Coast

Advanced, multidimensional models are typically applied when researching processes occurring in the nearshore. Relatively simple, empirical equations are commonly used in coastal engineering practice in order to estimate extreme wave run-up on beaches and coastal structures. However, they were mostl...

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Autores principales: Paprotny, Dominik, Andrzejewski, Paweł, Terefenko, Paweł, Furmańczyk, Kazimierz
Formato: Online Artículo Texto
Lenguaje:English
Publicado: Public Library of Science 2014
Materias:
Acceso en línea:https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4138157/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25137155
http://dx.doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0105437
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author Paprotny, Dominik
Andrzejewski, Paweł
Terefenko, Paweł
Furmańczyk, Kazimierz
author_facet Paprotny, Dominik
Andrzejewski, Paweł
Terefenko, Paweł
Furmańczyk, Kazimierz
author_sort Paprotny, Dominik
collection PubMed
description Advanced, multidimensional models are typically applied when researching processes occurring in the nearshore. Relatively simple, empirical equations are commonly used in coastal engineering practice in order to estimate extreme wave run-up on beaches and coastal structures. However, they were mostly calibrated to the characteristics of oceanic coasts, which have different wave regime than a semi-enclosed basin like the Baltic Sea. In this paper we apply the formulas to the Polish Baltic Sea coast. The equations were adjusted to match local conditions in two test sites in Międzyzdroje and Dziwnówek, where beaches are under continuous video surveillance. Data from WAM wave model and coastal gauge stations were used, as well as precise measurements of the beaches' cross-sections. More than 600 run-up events spanning from June to December 2013 were analysed, including surges causing dune erosion. Extreme wave run-up R(2%) was calculated and presented as a percentage value indicating what part of the beach was inundated. The method had a root-mean-square error of 6.1 and 6.5 percentage points depending on the test site. We consider it is a fast and computationally undemanding alternative to morphodynamic models. It will constitute a part of the SatBałtyk Operating System-Shores, delivering forecasts of wave run-up on the beaches for the entire Polish coastline.
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spelling pubmed-41381572014-08-20 Application of Empirical Wave Run-Up Formulas to the Polish Baltic Sea Coast Paprotny, Dominik Andrzejewski, Paweł Terefenko, Paweł Furmańczyk, Kazimierz PLoS One Research Article Advanced, multidimensional models are typically applied when researching processes occurring in the nearshore. Relatively simple, empirical equations are commonly used in coastal engineering practice in order to estimate extreme wave run-up on beaches and coastal structures. However, they were mostly calibrated to the characteristics of oceanic coasts, which have different wave regime than a semi-enclosed basin like the Baltic Sea. In this paper we apply the formulas to the Polish Baltic Sea coast. The equations were adjusted to match local conditions in two test sites in Międzyzdroje and Dziwnówek, where beaches are under continuous video surveillance. Data from WAM wave model and coastal gauge stations were used, as well as precise measurements of the beaches' cross-sections. More than 600 run-up events spanning from June to December 2013 were analysed, including surges causing dune erosion. Extreme wave run-up R(2%) was calculated and presented as a percentage value indicating what part of the beach was inundated. The method had a root-mean-square error of 6.1 and 6.5 percentage points depending on the test site. We consider it is a fast and computationally undemanding alternative to morphodynamic models. It will constitute a part of the SatBałtyk Operating System-Shores, delivering forecasts of wave run-up on the beaches for the entire Polish coastline. Public Library of Science 2014-08-19 /pmc/articles/PMC4138157/ /pubmed/25137155 http://dx.doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0105437 Text en © 2014 Paprotny et al http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/ This is an open-access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original author and source are properly credited.
spellingShingle Research Article
Paprotny, Dominik
Andrzejewski, Paweł
Terefenko, Paweł
Furmańczyk, Kazimierz
Application of Empirical Wave Run-Up Formulas to the Polish Baltic Sea Coast
title Application of Empirical Wave Run-Up Formulas to the Polish Baltic Sea Coast
title_full Application of Empirical Wave Run-Up Formulas to the Polish Baltic Sea Coast
title_fullStr Application of Empirical Wave Run-Up Formulas to the Polish Baltic Sea Coast
title_full_unstemmed Application of Empirical Wave Run-Up Formulas to the Polish Baltic Sea Coast
title_short Application of Empirical Wave Run-Up Formulas to the Polish Baltic Sea Coast
title_sort application of empirical wave run-up formulas to the polish baltic sea coast
topic Research Article
url https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4138157/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25137155
http://dx.doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0105437
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