Dynamic changes in microbiota and mycobiota during spontaneous ‘Vino Santo Trentino’ fermentation

Vino Santo is a sweet wine produced from late harvesting and pressing of Nosiola grapes in a small, well‐defined geographical area in the Italian Alps. We used metagenomics to characterize the dynamics of microbial communities in the products of three wineries, resulting from spontaneous fermentation with almost the same timing and procedure. Comparing fermentation dynamics and grape microbial composition, we show a rapid increase in a small number of wine yeast species, with a parallel decrease in complexity. Despite the application of similar protocols, slight changes in the procedures led to significant differences in the microbiota in the three cases of fermentation: (i) fungal content of the must varied significantly in the different wineries, (ii) P ichia membranifaciens persisted in only one of the wineries, (iii) one fermentation was characterized by the balanced presence of S accharomyces cerevisiae and H anseniaspora osmophila during the later phases. We suggest the existence of a highly winery‐specific ‘microbial‐terroir’ contributing significantly to the final product rather than a regional ‘terroir’. Analysis of changes in abundance during fermentation showed evident correlations between different species, suggesting that fermentation is the result of a continuum of interaction between different species and physical–chemical parameters.