Development of new 3D human ex vivo models to study sebaceous gland lipid metabolism and modulations

OBJECTIVES: Sebaceous glands maintain skin homeostasis by producing sebum. Low production can induce hair loss and fragile skin. Overproduction provokes seborrhoea and may lead to acne and inflammatory events. To better study sebaceous gland maintenance, sebocyte maturation, lipid production and ageing or inflammatory processes, we developed innovative 3D ex vivo models for human sebaceous glands. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Culture conditions and analytical methods optimized on sebocyte monolayers were validated on extracted sebaceous glands and allowed the development of two 3D models: (a) “air‐liquid” interface and (b) human fibronectin‐coated “sandwich” method. Lipid production was assessed with microscopy, fluorometry or flow cytometry analysis after Nile Red staining. Specific lipids (particularly squalene and peroxidized squalene) were measured by Gas or liquid Chromatography and Mass spectrometry. RESULTS: This study allowed us to select appropriate conditions and design Seb4Gln culture medium inducing sebocyte proliferation and neutral lipid production. The “air‐liquid” model was appropriate to induce sebocyte isolation. The “sandwich” model enabled sebaceous gland maintenance up to 42 days. A treatment with Insulin Growth Factor‐1 allowed validation of the model as we succeeded in mimicking dynamic lipid overproduction. CONCLUSION: Functional sebocyte maturation and physiological maintenance were preserved up to 6 weeks in our models. Associated with functional assays, they provide a powerful platform to mimic physiological skin lipid metabolism and to screen for active ingredients modulating sebum production.