A novel water-based anti-aging suncare formulation provides multifaceted protection and repair against environmental aggressors: evidence from in vitro, ex vivo, and clinical studies

BACKGROUND: Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is an established cause of skin aging, and the role of pollution is increasingly acknowledged. In this study, we evaluated the efficacy of an antipollution and anti-aging suncare product in in vitro, ex vivo, and clinical studies. METHODS: We assessed 1) sunburn cell (SBC) and cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer (CPD) formation and gene expression profile in reconstructed human epidermis following solar irradiation, 2) malondialdehyde (MDA) level, Nrf2 immunostaining, and genetic expression in skin explants exposed to pollution, 3) carbon particle adhesion to healthy forearm skin in a clinical study, and 4) skin firmness, elasticity, and pigmentation spots in healthy women following 56 days of application. RESULTS: 1) The product fully protected against CPD formation, and provided a high protection against SBC formation, with levels close to non-irradiated samples. Expression of genes encoding pro-inflammatory and oxidative stress response markers was lower in product-treated than untreated skin. 2) Compared with pollution-exposed untreated controls, product-treated skin had 23% lower MDA levels (P<0.01), weaker Nrf2 immunostaining, and attenuated upregulation of CYP1A1. 3) The product significantly decreased adhesion of carbon particles to the skin (15.2% less than control; P<0.01). 4) Clinically, product use led to a decrease in brown spots, with a relative reduction in the count of −1.9% (NS), and in area, −5.0% (P<0.01), and decrease in UV spots, with a relative reduction of −6.9% (P<0.01) and −9.3% (P=0.02) for count and area, respectively. Firmness increased significantly by 14.1% (P<0.01). Participants reported skin was more even in tone (80%), more moisturized (93%), and firmer (74%). CONCLUSION: This water-based anti-aging SPF50 suncare formulation containing photolyase encapsulated in liposome, active biopeptides, antioxidants, and hyaluronic acid provides multifaceted protection and repair action against pollution and UV-induced skin aging, ideal for everyday use.