Anti‐inflammatory / anti‐oxidant activity of ingredients of sunscreen products? Implications for SPF

OBJECTIVE: The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of sunscreen products is derived from testing in vivo their ability to prevent erythema (“sunburn”). Recently, certain articles have raised concerns that sunscreen products may actively suppress erythema via anti‐inflammatory / anti‐oxidant (AI/AO) activity. These articles reason that this may result in a higher labelled SPF value than that provided by the efficacy of the UVR filters alone, giving consumers a “false sense of security”. On the other hand, since inflammatory processes are known to play a role in the mechanisms of photodamage / skin cancer induction and propagation, AI/AO activity may provide valuable incremental photoprotective benefit (provided that there is no interference with visible erythema). The objective of these studies, therefore, was to investigate the potential of AI/AO ingredients to suppress UVR‐induced erythemal response in human skin, in vivo. METHODS: In vivo studies with SPF30 sunscreen formulations containing a variety of AI/AO ingredients were performed according to the International Standard ISO24444:2010 method. While ISO24444:2010 requires assessment of erythema at 20 ± 4h post‐irradiation, an additional assessment at 5 h post‐irradiation was also used to determine potential delay in erythema development. RESULTS: None of the formulations, containing a variety of AI/AO ingredients, influenced SPF determination in comparison to the vehicle formulation. CONCLUSION: Our in vivo results demonstrate that commonly‐used AI/AO ingredients, at concentrations typically used in sunscreen products, neither influence SPF value nor delay erythemal response, i.e., the measured SPF reflects the true photoprotective capacity of the product.