Bio‐derived hydroxystearic acid ameliorates skin age spots and conspicuous pores

INTRODUCTION: We report on the preparation and efficacy of 10‐hydroxystearic acid (HSA) that improves facial age spots and conspicuous pores. METHODS: The hydration of oleic acid into HSA was catalyzed by the oleate hydratase from Escherichia coli. Following treatment with HSA, collagen type I and type III was assessed in primary human dermal fibroblasts together with collagen type III, p53 protein levels and sunburn cells (SBC) after UVB irradiation (1 J cm(−2)) by immunohistochemistry on human ex vivo skin. UVB‐induced expression of matrix metalloprotease‐1 (MMP‐1) was determined from full thickness skin by RT‐qPCR. Modification of the fibroblast secretome by HSA was studied by mass‐spectrometry‐based proteomics. In a full‐face, double blind, vehicle‐controlled trial HSA was assessed for its effects on conspicuous facial pore size and degree of pigmentation of age spots in Caucasian women over an 8‐week period. RESULTS: HSA was obtained in enantiomeric pure, high yield (≥80%). Collagen type I and type III levels were dose‐dependently increased (96% and 244%; P < 0.01) in vitro and collagen type III in ex vivo skin by +57% (P < 0.01) by HSA. HSA also inhibited UVB‐induced MMP‐1 gene expression (83%; P < 0.01) and mitigated SBC induction (−34% vs. vehicle control) and reduced significantly UV‐induced p53 up‐regulation (−46% vs. vehicle control; P < 0.01) in irradiated skin. HSA modified the fibroblast secretome with significant increases in proteins associated with the WNT pathway that could reduce melanogenesis and proteins that could modify dermal fibroblast activity and keratinocyte differentiation to account for the alleviation of conspicuous pores. Docking studies in silico and EC50 determination in reporter gene assays (EC50 5.5 × 10(−6) M) identified HSA as a peroxisomal proliferator activated receptor‐α (PPARα) agonist. Clinically, HSA showed a statistically significant decrease of surface and volume of skin pores (P < 0.05) after 8 weeks of application and age spots became significantly less pigmented than the surrounding skin (contrast, P < 0.05) after 4 weeks. CONCLUSION: HSA acts as a PPARα agonist to reduce the signs of age spots and conspicuous pores by significantly modulating the expression of p53, SBC, MMP‐1 and collagen together with major changes in secreted proteins that modify keratinocyte, melanocyte and fibroblast cell behavior.