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Clinical and in vitro evaluation of new anti‐redness cosmetic products in subjects with winter xerosis and sensitive skin
OBJECTIVE: To demonstrate the in vitro activities of panthenol, palmitoylethanolamide (PEA), and niacinamide (NAM) and determine the biophysical properties, clinical safety, tolerability together with efficacy of two developmental anti‐redness (AR) formulations containing these ingredients, in allev...
Autores principales: | , , , , , , , , |
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Formato: | Online Artículo Texto |
Lenguaje: | English |
Publicado: |
John Wiley and Sons Inc.
2019
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Materias: | |
Acceso en línea: | https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6899962/ https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/31309600 http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12559 |
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author | Nisbet, S. J. Targett, D. Rawlings, A. V. Qian, K. Wang, X. Lin, C. B. Thompson, M. A. Bulsara, P. A. Moore, D. J. |
author_facet | Nisbet, S. J. Targett, D. Rawlings, A. V. Qian, K. Wang, X. Lin, C. B. Thompson, M. A. Bulsara, P. A. Moore, D. J. |
author_sort | Nisbet, S. J. |
collection | PubMed |
description | OBJECTIVE: To demonstrate the in vitro activities of panthenol, palmitoylethanolamide (PEA), and niacinamide (NAM) and determine the biophysical properties, clinical safety, tolerability together with efficacy of two developmental anti‐redness (AR) formulations containing these ingredients, in alleviating facial redness associated with winter xerosis in healthy volunteers with sensitive skin. METHODS: The anti‐inflammatory and skin protective properties of panthenol, PEA and NAM were evaluated in vitro. The physical properties of the AR formulations were analysed using measurement of water vapour transport rate (WVTR) and infrared spectroscopy. Clinical studies were performed between the months of December and April (2014–2015) with efficacy assessed during the winter. Facial redness, irritation, sensitization potential, photo‐irritation, and photo‐sensitization were evaluated. Self‐assessed adverse reactions were reported in diaries of use. RESULTS: Panthenol and PEA reduced prostaglandin E(2), interleukin‐6, and thymic stromal lymphopoietin levels in vitro, while NAM induced nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) levels and the keratinocyte differentiation markers: filaggrin (2‐fold increase, P < 0.001), loricrin (2‐fold increase, P < 0.05), involucrin (2 fold increase, P < 0.001) & peroxisomal proliferator activated receptor‐alpha (1.5 fold increase, P < 0.05). The two AR products exhibited low WVTR vs. no treatment (P < 0.001) and displayed an ordered lipid structure. The day cream formulation protected against ultraviolet B radiation in vitro. A total of 382 participants were included in clinical studies which showed the AR formulations significantly improved facial redness associated with winter xerosis (Day 29 mean change from baseline: AR day cream 0.77 (P < 0.001); AR serum 0.67 (P < 0.001)). No irritation, sensitization, photo‐irritation, photo‐sensitization or product‐related adverse reactions were observed or reported in the clinical studies. CONCLUSION: The new products significantly improved skin redness associated with winter xerosis in participants with self‐perceived sensitive skin. Both products were well tolerated with a suitable safety profile for topical use in subjects with sensitive skin. |
format | Online Article Text |
id | pubmed-6899962 |
institution | National Center for Biotechnology Information |
language | English |
publishDate | 2019 |
publisher | John Wiley and Sons Inc. |
record_format | MEDLINE/PubMed |
spelling | pubmed-68999622019-12-20 Clinical and in vitro evaluation of new anti‐redness cosmetic products in subjects with winter xerosis and sensitive skin Nisbet, S. J. Targett, D. Rawlings, A. V. Qian, K. Wang, X. Lin, C. B. Thompson, M. A. Bulsara, P. A. Moore, D. J. Int J Cosmet Sci Original Articles OBJECTIVE: To demonstrate the in vitro activities of panthenol, palmitoylethanolamide (PEA), and niacinamide (NAM) and determine the biophysical properties, clinical safety, tolerability together with efficacy of two developmental anti‐redness (AR) formulations containing these ingredients, in alleviating facial redness associated with winter xerosis in healthy volunteers with sensitive skin. METHODS: The anti‐inflammatory and skin protective properties of panthenol, PEA and NAM were evaluated in vitro. The physical properties of the AR formulations were analysed using measurement of water vapour transport rate (WVTR) and infrared spectroscopy. Clinical studies were performed between the months of December and April (2014–2015) with efficacy assessed during the winter. Facial redness, irritation, sensitization potential, photo‐irritation, and photo‐sensitization were evaluated. Self‐assessed adverse reactions were reported in diaries of use. RESULTS: Panthenol and PEA reduced prostaglandin E(2), interleukin‐6, and thymic stromal lymphopoietin levels in vitro, while NAM induced nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD) levels and the keratinocyte differentiation markers: filaggrin (2‐fold increase, P < 0.001), loricrin (2‐fold increase, P < 0.05), involucrin (2 fold increase, P < 0.001) & peroxisomal proliferator activated receptor‐alpha (1.5 fold increase, P < 0.05). The two AR products exhibited low WVTR vs. no treatment (P < 0.001) and displayed an ordered lipid structure. The day cream formulation protected against ultraviolet B radiation in vitro. A total of 382 participants were included in clinical studies which showed the AR formulations significantly improved facial redness associated with winter xerosis (Day 29 mean change from baseline: AR day cream 0.77 (P < 0.001); AR serum 0.67 (P < 0.001)). No irritation, sensitization, photo‐irritation, photo‐sensitization or product‐related adverse reactions were observed or reported in the clinical studies. CONCLUSION: The new products significantly improved skin redness associated with winter xerosis in participants with self‐perceived sensitive skin. Both products were well tolerated with a suitable safety profile for topical use in subjects with sensitive skin. John Wiley and Sons Inc. 2019-11-20 2019-12 /pmc/articles/PMC6899962/ /pubmed/31309600 http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12559 Text en © 2019 The Authors. International Journal of Cosmetic Science published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Société Française de Cosmétologie This is an open access article under the terms of the http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/ License, which permits use and distribution in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited, the use is non‐commercial and no modifications or adaptations are made. |
spellingShingle | Original Articles Nisbet, S. J. Targett, D. Rawlings, A. V. Qian, K. Wang, X. Lin, C. B. Thompson, M. A. Bulsara, P. A. Moore, D. J. Clinical and in vitro evaluation of new anti‐redness cosmetic products in subjects with winter xerosis and sensitive skin |
title | Clinical and in vitro evaluation of new anti‐redness cosmetic products in subjects with winter xerosis and sensitive skin |
title_full | Clinical and in vitro evaluation of new anti‐redness cosmetic products in subjects with winter xerosis and sensitive skin |
title_fullStr | Clinical and in vitro evaluation of new anti‐redness cosmetic products in subjects with winter xerosis and sensitive skin |
title_full_unstemmed | Clinical and in vitro evaluation of new anti‐redness cosmetic products in subjects with winter xerosis and sensitive skin |
title_short | Clinical and in vitro evaluation of new anti‐redness cosmetic products in subjects with winter xerosis and sensitive skin |
title_sort | clinical and in vitro evaluation of new anti‐redness cosmetic products in subjects with winter xerosis and sensitive skin |
topic | Original Articles |
url | https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6899962/ https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/31309600 http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ics.12559 |
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