Skin Hydration Effects of Scale-Up Fermented Cyclopia intermedia against Ultraviolet B-Induced Damage in Keratinocyte Cells and Hairless Mice

Photoaging occurs by chronic skin exposure to the sun and ultraviolet irradiation and leads to skin aging accompanied by a lack of skin hydration. We previously demonstrated the photoprotective effect of fermented Cyclopia intermedia (honeybush) extract on the skin. In this study, we evaluated the skin hydration effects of scaled-up fermented honeybush extract (HU-018) against ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation in HaCaT immortalized human keratinocytes and hairless mice. Pretreating HaCaT cells with HU-018 attenuated the decreased hyaluronic acid (HA) levels and mRNA expression of genes encoding involucrin, filaggrin, and loricrin by UVB irradiation. HU-018 treatment also ameliorated the decreased stratum corneum (SC) hydration and the increased levels of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and erythema index (EI) in hairless mice after UVB exposure. Microarray analysis revealed changes in gene expression patterns of hyaluronan synthase 2 (Has2), transforming growth factor-beta 3 (TGF-β3), and elastin induced by HU-018 in UVB-irradiated mice. Consistently, the mRNA expression of Has2, TGF-β3, and elastin was increased by HU-018 treatment. Moreover, HU-018 restored the increased epidermal thickness and collagen disorganization in skin tissue of UVB-irradiated mice. HU-018 treatment also decreased matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression and increased procollagen type-1, elastin, and TGF-β1 expression. In conclusion, we found that HU-018 promoted skin hydration processes in UVB-irradiated keratinocytes and hairless mice by modulating involucrin, filaggrin, loricrin, and HA expression and ameliorating visible signs of photoaging. Thus, HU-018 may be a good skin hydration agent for skin care.