A novel skin brightening topical technology

BACKGROUND: Effective skin lightening remains an unmet need in over‐the‐counter formulations. AIMS: This research examined a topical facial formulation containing hexylresorcinol, silymarin, 20% vitamin C, and 5% vitamin E in a proprietary anhydrous vehicle in skin explants for UVB photoprotective effects and clinical benefits. PATIENTS/METHOD: In vitro investigation examined 12 skin explants to assess the test product and vehicle. Six skin explants received 10 μL of the study product, and six skin explants received the 10 μL of the vehicle. After 96 hours, half the skin samples were exposed to 250 mJ/cm(2) of UVB radiation while the other half unexposed. Clinically, 42 female subjects with normal or dry skin 35‐55 years with skin types I‐VI were enrolled possessing discoloration, uneven skin tone, and fine lines. The dermatologist investigator evaluated brightening, evenness, fine lines, wrinkles, and global appearance. RESULTS: Explants treated with the study product experienced no significant change in gene marker expression of pro‐collagen and pro‐inflammatory gene markers upon UVB exposure. In contrast, skin explants treated with the vehicle experienced significant decreases in pro‐collagen expression and significant increases in pro‐inflammatory gene marker expression. Clinically, the greatest improvement as compared to baseline was seen at week 12 (P < .001) with 45% improvement in brightening, 27% improvement in evenness, 25% improvement in lines, and 25% improvement in global facial appearance. CONCLUSION: Hexylresorcinol, silymarin, 20% vitamin C, and 5% vitamin E in a proprietary anhydrous vehicle are effective in decreasing UVB‐induced photodamage in skin explants while clinically producing skin brightness improvement.