Effectiveness of a formulation containing peptides and vitamin C in treating signs of facial ageing: three clinical studies

OBJECTIVE: Vitamin C and peptides are widely used in cosmetic products but there is a paucity of clinical studies showing that the formulations are effective in treating signs of facial ageing. These 3 clinical studies evaluated the effectiveness of an anti‐ageing formula containing natural vitamin C (10%), biopeptides (rice and lupin), hyaluronic acid, and Vichy volcanic mineralising water, in amber glass ampoules with no preservatives (Peptide‐C ampoules). METHODS: Dansyl chloride fluorescence labelling compared cell turnover for Peptide‐C ampoules vs untreated skin in 32 female subjects. Study 2, an open clinical study, evaluated the efficacy on wrinkles of Peptide‐C ampoules by investigator clinical scoring based on Dynamical Atlas visual assessment (N = 40) and subject self‐assessment questionnaires (N = 47). Study 3, an open clinical study, evaluated wrinkles by instrumental quantification with 3D fringe projection analysis (N = 40) and subject questionnaires (N = 51). RESULTS: The mean cell turnover was faster for skin treated with Peptide‐C ampoules compared to untreated skin (17.1 days vs. 19.2 days; P < 0.0001). In study 2, after 28 days application of Peptide‐C ampoules, clinical grading of crow’s‐feet wrinkles, forehead wrinkles and nasolabial folds decreased by 9%, 11% and 5%, respectively (all P < 0.05 vs baseline). Of 47 subjects, 77%, 64% and 79% indicated their skin seemed smoothed out, fine lines were less visible, and skin complexion was more radiant, respectively. In study 3, the number of wrinkles decreased by 11.5% after 29 days application of Peptide‐C ampoules vs baseline (P < 0.05) and 65% of subjects responded the fine lines were less visible. CONCLUSION: This formulation of a combination of anti‐ageing ingredients in ampoules, allowing a minimalist formula, showed significant results on improving facial wrinkles and radiance.