Study of the protective effects of cosmetic ingredients on the skin barrier, based on the expression of barrier-related genes and cytokines

BACKGROUND: Sensitive skin is the result of a complex process that is closely linked to the damage of the skin barrier. There are no recognized methods for evaluating the efficacy of anti-allergy products. METHODS: In this study, a model of skin barrier damage was created by treating HaCaT cells with 60 μg/ml of sodium dodecyl sulfate for 48 h. The protective effects of nine cosmetic ingredients, including oat extract (S1), on the skin barrier were investigated based on the gene expression levels of aquaporin3 (AQP3), filaggrin (FLG), caspase-14 (CASP14), and human tissue kallikrein7 (KLK7), as well as those of various interleukins (IL) and vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF). RESULTS: Among the nine ingredients, S1 had a good protective effect on the function of the skin barrier. It promoted the expression of AQP3, FLG, and CASP14, while inhibiting the expression of KLK7 in HaCaT cells, at a concentration of 0.06%. It also maintained IL-6, IL-8, and VEGF at appropriate levels while promoting the proliferation and differentiation of HaCaT cells. CONCLUSIONS: The above indicators allow for the preliminary establishment of a method to evaluate the efficacy of the barrier protection ability of sensitive skin. SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION: The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s11033-021-06918-5.