Methoxy-Monobenzoylmethane Protects Skin from UV-Induced Damages in a Randomized, Placebo Controlled, Double-Blinded Human In Vivo Study and Prevents Signs of Inflammation While Improving the Skin Barrier

INTRODUCTION: Sun protection is important in skin care and requires special attention as inefficient protection might trigger skin pathologies including polymorphic light eruption (PLE). The reduce-improve-protect (RIP) concept to avoid the onset of ultraviolet (UV) irradiation-induced diseases or damage to human skin is important. Methoxy-monobenzoylmethane (MeO-MBM), which is neither a UVB nor a UVA filter, converts to the UV filter avobenzone under UV irradiation and further acts as a photoantioxidant during its conversion process and initially as an antioxidant material. The aim of this study was to understand the mechanisms by which MeO-MBM improves the condition of UV-stressed skin through its photoantioxidant properties. The improvement of the skin condition by the activity of MeO-MBM as active ingredient was also investigated. METHODS: Potential molecular targets were identified by in silico docking to numerous cellular membrane receptors on the cell surface or nuclear membrane, followed by microarray analysis of 164 genes after MeO-MBM treatment of normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK). We conducted randomized, double-blinded, intra-individual comparison vs. placebo studies on ten volunteers, aged between 34 and 65 years, to assess the effect of MeO-MBM in vivo. The effect after UV-induced inflammation was assessed in a protective and curative set-up with 2% MeO-MBM vs. 1% hydrocortisone and placebo based on the change in blood flow. The barrier function of the skin was assessed by the change in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin scaling and skin thickness after the treatment with MeO-MBM. Additionally, the effect of MeO-MBM after UV-induced stress on the activation of ferritin in human explants was determined ex vivo. RESULTS: A docking simulation of MeO-MBM showed a potential interaction with the retinoic acid receptor gamma and further revealed downregulation of proteins related to inflammation. In the protective treatment set-up, after 24 h MeO-MBM significantly reduced the delta blood flow compared to placebo, while this reduction was more prominent with hydrocortisone. In the curative treatment set-up, a greater reduction in delta blood flow was also observed with MeO-MBM compared to placebo and similar to hydrocortisone. Treatment with MeO-MBM revealed an improvement in skin barrier function as a result of decreased TEWL, reduced skin scaling and increased skin thickness. Immunohistochemistry staining of ferritin on human skin explants further showed that the treatment with MeO-MBM reduced the ferritin expression. CONCLUSION: Based on these results, MeO-MBM is capable of exerting an anti-aging activity via the retinoic acid receptor gamma. Its anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative activity manifested via the downregulation of multiple anti-inflammatory genes as well as the reduction of ferritin in skin tissue. This study shows that the multidimensional functionality of MeO-MBM offers an effective approach to combat acute and chronic deleterious effects of oxidative UV damage while simultaneously enhancing the skin barrier function.