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The Load Structure in International Competitive Climbing

The analysis of the load structure in competitions is essential to develop performance structure models from which sport-specific testing and training protocols can be derived. The aim of this study was to characterize the external load structure of competitive climbing at an international level in...

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Autores principales: Winkler, Marvin, Künzell, Stefan, Augste, Claudia
Formato: Online Artículo Texto
Lenguaje:English
Publicado: Frontiers Media S.A. 2022
Materias:
Acceso en línea:https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8980921/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/35392592
http://dx.doi.org/10.3389/fspor.2022.790336
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author Winkler, Marvin
Künzell, Stefan
Augste, Claudia
author_facet Winkler, Marvin
Künzell, Stefan
Augste, Claudia
author_sort Winkler, Marvin
collection PubMed
description The analysis of the load structure in competitions is essential to develop performance structure models from which sport-specific testing and training protocols can be derived. The aim of this study was to characterize the external load structure of competitive climbing at an international level in the disciplines of speed, bouldering, lead, and Olympic combined based on video recordings of top athletes. In speed, the route was completed by women with a median of 11 moves and by men with 9 moves that required 0.73 and 0.60 s per move, respectively. Bouldering competitions are characterized by various bouts of activity with resting periods in between. Athletes attempted a boulder problem, a median of 3 times in the qualification and semi-final rounds and 4 times in the final round with an average attempt duration of 27.0 s. In lead, the load structure is characterized by an average climbing time of 4:09 min and 4:18 min, 31.6 and 30.0 actions, contact times of 6.4 s and 6.2 s, and reach times of 1.4 s and 1.6 s for women and men, respectively. Olympic combined competitions combine all 3 single disciplines starting with speed followed by bouldering and lead and are characterized by high competition loads, long durations of almost 3 h, and relatively short resting periods in between.
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spelling pubmed-89809212022-04-06 The Load Structure in International Competitive Climbing Winkler, Marvin Künzell, Stefan Augste, Claudia Front Sports Act Living Sports and Active Living The analysis of the load structure in competitions is essential to develop performance structure models from which sport-specific testing and training protocols can be derived. The aim of this study was to characterize the external load structure of competitive climbing at an international level in the disciplines of speed, bouldering, lead, and Olympic combined based on video recordings of top athletes. In speed, the route was completed by women with a median of 11 moves and by men with 9 moves that required 0.73 and 0.60 s per move, respectively. Bouldering competitions are characterized by various bouts of activity with resting periods in between. Athletes attempted a boulder problem, a median of 3 times in the qualification and semi-final rounds and 4 times in the final round with an average attempt duration of 27.0 s. In lead, the load structure is characterized by an average climbing time of 4:09 min and 4:18 min, 31.6 and 30.0 actions, contact times of 6.4 s and 6.2 s, and reach times of 1.4 s and 1.6 s for women and men, respectively. Olympic combined competitions combine all 3 single disciplines starting with speed followed by bouldering and lead and are characterized by high competition loads, long durations of almost 3 h, and relatively short resting periods in between. Frontiers Media S.A. 2022-03-22 /pmc/articles/PMC8980921/ /pubmed/35392592 http://dx.doi.org/10.3389/fspor.2022.790336 Text en Copyright © 2022 Winkler, Künzell and Augste. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/This is an open-access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License (CC BY). The use, distribution or reproduction in other forums is permitted, provided the original author(s) and the copyright owner(s) are credited and that the original publication in this journal is cited, in accordance with accepted academic practice. No use, distribution or reproduction is permitted which does not comply with these terms.
spellingShingle Sports and Active Living
Winkler, Marvin
Künzell, Stefan
Augste, Claudia
The Load Structure in International Competitive Climbing
title The Load Structure in International Competitive Climbing
title_full The Load Structure in International Competitive Climbing
title_fullStr The Load Structure in International Competitive Climbing
title_full_unstemmed The Load Structure in International Competitive Climbing
title_short The Load Structure in International Competitive Climbing
title_sort load structure in international competitive climbing
topic Sports and Active Living
url https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8980921/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/35392592
http://dx.doi.org/10.3389/fspor.2022.790336
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