Potential cosmeceutical lamellar liquid crystals containing black longan (Dimocarpus longan Lour.) seed extract for MMP-1 and hyaluronidase inhibition

The aims of this study were to evaluate the biological activities of black Dimocarpus longan Lour. seed extracts and develop a lamellar liquid crystal (LLC). Different solvents, including petroleum ether, ethyl acetate, and 95% v/v ethanol, were used in the maceration of black D. longan seeds. The inhibitory activities on matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and hyaluronidase were evaluated. The irritating potency of D. longan seed extracts was determined using the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test. The extract with the strongest anti-ageing activities and no irritant impact was examined for its chemical contents using high-performance liquid chromatography and incorporated into the LLC. Various factors affecting the LLC formulations, including surfactant types and amounts, thickening agent types and amounts, and various oil types, were investigated. The results demonstrated that the ethyl acetate extract (EtOAc) was the most potent inhibitor of MMP-1 (IC(50) = 21.7 ± 5.4 µg/mL) and hyaluronidase (oleanolic acid equivalent = 0.44 ± 0.03 g per g extract). Interestingly, its MMP-1 inhibition was equivalent to that of oleanolic acid, corilagin, and gallic acid. Furthermore, its hyaluronidase inhibition was equivalent to that of gallic acid and ellagic acid. Gallic acid, which was the most abundant compound (15.6% ± 0.06% w/w) was suggested as the compound responsible for the biological activities of EtOAc extract. Considering its potential anti-skin ageing properties with no irritation of EtOAc extract, it was incorporated into the most suitable LLC, which was composed of 5% w/w Lexfeel® D5 oil, 0.5% w/w Carbopol® U21, 2% w/w Liquid Crystal Cream Maker, and 92.5% w/w DI water. The LLC containing EtOAc extract presented birefringence under a polarizing light microscope, indicating its crystallinity. The formulation had good stability after heating–cooling cycles in terms of external appearance, crystallinity, viscosity, and pH (5.5). As a result, it is recommended as a potential cosmeceutical formulation for anti-skin wrinkling. It is proposed that more research be conducted on the safety and efficacy of the treatment on human volunteers.