Screening and Research on Skin Barrier Damage Protective Efficacy of Different Mannosylerythritol Lipids

Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs) may prevent skin barrier damage, although their protective mechanisms and active monomeric constituents remain unclear. Here, three MELs were extracted from Candida antarctica cultures containing fermented olive oil then purified using silica gel-based column chromatography and semipreparative HPLC. All three compounds (MEL-A, MEL-B, MEL-C) were well separated and stable, and reliable materials were used for NMR and HRESIMS chemical structure determinations and for assessing MELs’ protective effects against skin damage. Notably, MEL-B and MEL-C effectively protected HaCaT cells from UVB-induced damage by upregulating the contents of filaggrin (FLG) and transglutaminase-1 (TGM1), as determined via ELISA. Moreover, MEL-B treatment (20 μg/mL) of UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells led to the upregulation of both the expression of mRNA genes and the key proteins FLG, LOR, and TGM1, which are known to be decreased in damaged skin cells. Additionally, histopathological analysis results revealed a markedly reduced intracellular vacuolation and cell damage, reflecting improved skin function after MEL-B treatment. Furthermore, immunofluorescence results revealed that MEL-B protected EpiKutis(®) three-dimensional cultured human skin cells from sodium dodecyl sulfate-induced damage by up-regulating FLG, LOR, and TGM1 expression. Accordingly, MELs’ protection against skin barrier damage depended on MEL-B monomeric constituent activities, thus highlighting their promise as beneficial ingredients for use in skin-care products.