Screening of Plant-Derived Natural Extracts to Identify a Candidate Extract Capable of Enhancing Lipid Synthesis in Keratinocytes

BACKGROUND: Reduced lipid content in the stratum corneum is a major cause of skin-barrier dysfunction in various pathological conditions. Promoting lipid production is a potential strategy to improve skin-barrier function. Recent evidence supports the beneficial effects of adiponectin on lipid metabolism and senescence in keratinocytes. OBJECTIVE: This study aimed to investigate whether plant extracts can enhance skin-barrier function. METHODS: We screened fruit and herb extracts that enhance the lipid synthesis of keratinocytes via AMP-activated protein kinase (AMPK) activation and SIRT1 signaling in the adiponectin pathway. The levels of major lipid synthesis enzymes and transcription factors as well as epidermal barrier lipids involved in adiponectin-associated epidermal barrier formation were evaluated in the herbal extracts- or adiponectin-treated human epidermal keratinocyte and equivalent models. The mRNA expression of major lipid synthesis enzymes increased following treatment with Lycii Fructus, Prunus tomentosa, and Melia toosendan extracts. RESULTS: The expression of transcription factors SIRT1, liver X receptor α, peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors (PPARs), and sterol regulatory element-binding proteins (SREBPs) were upregulated. Levels of free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides were elevated. The expression of keratinocyte differentiation markers increased. In particular, among fruit extracts with a detectable effect, Melia toosendan induced the highest expression of lipid synthase. CONCLUSION: These results indicate that Melia toosendan is a promising candidate for improving skin-barrier function.