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Saccorhiza polyschides—A Source of Natural Active Ingredients for Greener Skincare Formulations

The growing knowledge about the harmful effects caused by some synthetic ingredients present in skincare products has led to an extensive search for natural bioactives. Thus, this study aimed to investigate the dermatological potential of five fractions (F1–F5), obtained by a sequential extraction p...

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Autores principales: Susano, Patrícia, Silva, Joana, Alves, Celso, Martins, Alice, Pinteus, Susete, Gaspar, Helena, Goettert, Márcia Inês, Pedrosa, Rui
Formato: Online Artículo Texto
Lenguaje:English
Publicado: MDPI 2022
Materias:
Acceso en línea:https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9573298/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/36235032
http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/molecules27196496
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author Susano, Patrícia
Silva, Joana
Alves, Celso
Martins, Alice
Pinteus, Susete
Gaspar, Helena
Goettert, Márcia Inês
Pedrosa, Rui
author_facet Susano, Patrícia
Silva, Joana
Alves, Celso
Martins, Alice
Pinteus, Susete
Gaspar, Helena
Goettert, Márcia Inês
Pedrosa, Rui
author_sort Susano, Patrícia
collection PubMed
description The growing knowledge about the harmful effects caused by some synthetic ingredients present in skincare products has led to an extensive search for natural bioactives. Thus, this study aimed to investigate the dermatological potential of five fractions (F1–F5), obtained by a sequential extraction procedure, from the brown seaweed Saccorhiza polyschides. The antioxidant (DPPH, FRAP, ORAC and TPC), anti-enzymatic (collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase and tyrosinase), antimicrobial (Staphylococcus epidermidis, Cutibacterium acnes and Malassezia furfur), anti-inflammatory (nitric oxide, tumor necrosis factor-α, interleukin-6 and interleukin-10) and photoprotective (reactive oxygen species) properties of all fractions were evaluated. The ethyl acetate fraction (F3) displayed the highest antioxidant and photoprotective capacity, reducing ROS levels in UVA/B-exposed 3T3 fibroblasts, and the highest anti-enzymatic capacity against tyrosinase (IC(50) value: 89.1 µg/mL). The solid water-insoluble fraction (F5) revealed the greatest antimicrobial activity against C. acnes growth (IC(50) value: 12.4 µg/mL). Furthermore, all fractions demonstrated anti-inflammatory potential, reducing TNF-α and IL-6 levels in RAW 264.7 macrophages induced with lipopolysaccharides. Chemical analysis of the S. polyschides fractions by NMR revealed the presence of different classes of compounds, including lipids, polyphenols and sugars. The results highlight the potential of S. polyschides to be incorporated into new nature-based skincare products.
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spelling pubmed-95732982022-10-17 Saccorhiza polyschides—A Source of Natural Active Ingredients for Greener Skincare Formulations Susano, Patrícia Silva, Joana Alves, Celso Martins, Alice Pinteus, Susete Gaspar, Helena Goettert, Márcia Inês Pedrosa, Rui Molecules Article The growing knowledge about the harmful effects caused by some synthetic ingredients present in skincare products has led to an extensive search for natural bioactives. Thus, this study aimed to investigate the dermatological potential of five fractions (F1–F5), obtained by a sequential extraction procedure, from the brown seaweed Saccorhiza polyschides. The antioxidant (DPPH, FRAP, ORAC and TPC), anti-enzymatic (collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase and tyrosinase), antimicrobial (Staphylococcus epidermidis, Cutibacterium acnes and Malassezia furfur), anti-inflammatory (nitric oxide, tumor necrosis factor-α, interleukin-6 and interleukin-10) and photoprotective (reactive oxygen species) properties of all fractions were evaluated. The ethyl acetate fraction (F3) displayed the highest antioxidant and photoprotective capacity, reducing ROS levels in UVA/B-exposed 3T3 fibroblasts, and the highest anti-enzymatic capacity against tyrosinase (IC(50) value: 89.1 µg/mL). The solid water-insoluble fraction (F5) revealed the greatest antimicrobial activity against C. acnes growth (IC(50) value: 12.4 µg/mL). Furthermore, all fractions demonstrated anti-inflammatory potential, reducing TNF-α and IL-6 levels in RAW 264.7 macrophages induced with lipopolysaccharides. Chemical analysis of the S. polyschides fractions by NMR revealed the presence of different classes of compounds, including lipids, polyphenols and sugars. The results highlight the potential of S. polyschides to be incorporated into new nature-based skincare products. MDPI 2022-10-01 /pmc/articles/PMC9573298/ /pubmed/36235032 http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/molecules27196496 Text en © 2022 by the authors. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/).
spellingShingle Article
Susano, Patrícia
Silva, Joana
Alves, Celso
Martins, Alice
Pinteus, Susete
Gaspar, Helena
Goettert, Márcia Inês
Pedrosa, Rui
Saccorhiza polyschides—A Source of Natural Active Ingredients for Greener Skincare Formulations
title Saccorhiza polyschides—A Source of Natural Active Ingredients for Greener Skincare Formulations
title_full Saccorhiza polyschides—A Source of Natural Active Ingredients for Greener Skincare Formulations
title_fullStr Saccorhiza polyschides—A Source of Natural Active Ingredients for Greener Skincare Formulations
title_full_unstemmed Saccorhiza polyschides—A Source of Natural Active Ingredients for Greener Skincare Formulations
title_short Saccorhiza polyschides—A Source of Natural Active Ingredients for Greener Skincare Formulations
title_sort saccorhiza polyschides—a source of natural active ingredients for greener skincare formulations
topic Article
url https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9573298/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/36235032
http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/molecules27196496
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