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Betula alba Bark Extract and Empetrum nigrum Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits

The Scandinavian region is home to a unique biome with endemic plant species. The aim of this study was to explore this natural diversity and identify plant extracts providing positive skin barrier effects. Six plant extracts were identified as starting material. Following biochemical screening, two...

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Autores principales: Smiljanic, Sandra, Messaraa, Cyril, Lafon-Kolb, Virginie, Hrapovic, Nina, Amini, Nahid, Osterlund, Christina, Visdal-Johnsen, Lene
Formato: Online Artículo Texto
Lenguaje:English
Publicado: MDPI 2022
Materias:
Acceso en línea:https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9604162/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/36293365
http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/ijms232012507
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author Smiljanic, Sandra
Messaraa, Cyril
Lafon-Kolb, Virginie
Hrapovic, Nina
Amini, Nahid
Osterlund, Christina
Visdal-Johnsen, Lene
author_facet Smiljanic, Sandra
Messaraa, Cyril
Lafon-Kolb, Virginie
Hrapovic, Nina
Amini, Nahid
Osterlund, Christina
Visdal-Johnsen, Lene
author_sort Smiljanic, Sandra
collection PubMed
description The Scandinavian region is home to a unique biome with endemic plant species. The aim of this study was to explore this natural diversity and identify plant extracts providing positive skin barrier effects. Six plant extracts were identified as starting material. Following biochemical screening, two candidates outperformed the rest: Betula alba (BA) and Empetrum nigrum (EN). Quantitative PCR analysis showed that BA and EN upregulated barrier genes, when used individually and in combination. Betula alba increased AQP3 and OCLN protein expression, something niacinamide was incapable of. Additionally, the skin barrier was strengthened, evidenced by inhibition of KLK5 and hyaluronidase and showed strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity through DPPH and COX2 inhibition, respectively. A first split-face clinical study was conducted using the combination of extracts versus placebo. There was a significantly better skin restructuring effect and corneocyte cohesion on the side treated with combined extracts. A second split-face clinical study assessed the combined extracts versus 3% niacinamide. Significant variations in skin hydration and TEWL were observed in favor of the extract treated side. In conclusion, we identified a natural alternative to niacinamide for improving skin barrier health, in Scandinavian plant extracts, which yield strong performance, but at a lower concentration.
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spelling pubmed-96041622022-10-27 Betula alba Bark Extract and Empetrum nigrum Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits Smiljanic, Sandra Messaraa, Cyril Lafon-Kolb, Virginie Hrapovic, Nina Amini, Nahid Osterlund, Christina Visdal-Johnsen, Lene Int J Mol Sci Article The Scandinavian region is home to a unique biome with endemic plant species. The aim of this study was to explore this natural diversity and identify plant extracts providing positive skin barrier effects. Six plant extracts were identified as starting material. Following biochemical screening, two candidates outperformed the rest: Betula alba (BA) and Empetrum nigrum (EN). Quantitative PCR analysis showed that BA and EN upregulated barrier genes, when used individually and in combination. Betula alba increased AQP3 and OCLN protein expression, something niacinamide was incapable of. Additionally, the skin barrier was strengthened, evidenced by inhibition of KLK5 and hyaluronidase and showed strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity through DPPH and COX2 inhibition, respectively. A first split-face clinical study was conducted using the combination of extracts versus placebo. There was a significantly better skin restructuring effect and corneocyte cohesion on the side treated with combined extracts. A second split-face clinical study assessed the combined extracts versus 3% niacinamide. Significant variations in skin hydration and TEWL were observed in favor of the extract treated side. In conclusion, we identified a natural alternative to niacinamide for improving skin barrier health, in Scandinavian plant extracts, which yield strong performance, but at a lower concentration. MDPI 2022-10-19 /pmc/articles/PMC9604162/ /pubmed/36293365 http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/ijms232012507 Text en © 2022 by the authors. https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/Licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution (CC BY) license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/).
spellingShingle Article
Smiljanic, Sandra
Messaraa, Cyril
Lafon-Kolb, Virginie
Hrapovic, Nina
Amini, Nahid
Osterlund, Christina
Visdal-Johnsen, Lene
Betula alba Bark Extract and Empetrum nigrum Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits
title Betula alba Bark Extract and Empetrum nigrum Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits
title_full Betula alba Bark Extract and Empetrum nigrum Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits
title_fullStr Betula alba Bark Extract and Empetrum nigrum Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits
title_full_unstemmed Betula alba Bark Extract and Empetrum nigrum Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits
title_short Betula alba Bark Extract and Empetrum nigrum Fruit Juice, a Natural Alternative to Niacinamide for Skin Barrier Benefits
title_sort betula alba bark extract and empetrum nigrum fruit juice, a natural alternative to niacinamide for skin barrier benefits
topic Article
url https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9604162/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/36293365
http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/ijms232012507
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