Brewers’ spent hop revalorization for the production of high added-value cosmetics ingredients with elastase inhibition capacity

This article summarizes the analysis of α and β-acids and prenylflavonoids from brewers’ spent hop (BSH) as source of bioactive molecules to improve skin integrity by inhibiting elastase activity. To maximize the efficacy of the BSH extracts, it was necessary to identify the most bioactive hop compounds and the extraction parameters to maximize elastase inhibition and total antioxidant capacity. Thus, a computational methodology was carried out to test the anti-elastase potential of these hop molecules, detecting cis-iso-α-cohumulone and 8-prenylnaringenin as main inhibitors. Then, BSH extracts were optimized to ensure the maximum extraction of bioactive compounds, using compatible solvents (water and 100% plant-based propanediol) according to the green cosmetic standards. Finally, a determination and quantification method based on HPLC–MS/MS was used to guarantee the presence of the bioactive molecules, detecting a higher concentration of cis-iso-α-cohumulone and 8-prenylnaringenin in those samples with high anti-elastase activity. By optimizing extraction conditions and agents, a BSH extract was designed, showing high antioxidant (81.9 mmol Trolox/L) and high anti-elastase capacities.