Arginine–fructose–glucose from red ginseng extract reduces stiffness of keratin fiber in corneocyte of skin

PURPOSE: The moisture content of the stratum corneum of the skin changes depending on the external environment. The structure of keratinous fiber protein in corneocyte of the skin changes depending on the amount of moisture. As the moisture decreases, the population of the alpha‐helix increases, the beta‐sheet deceases, and the stiffness increases accordingly. Here, we investigated the effect of humectants from ginseng on the keratin structure. METHODS: Corneocyte was prepared from dry porcine skin with disc tape and measured through ATR‐FT‐IR. The signal from amide I of the keratin protein in corneocyte was detected, and the change in the ratio of alpha‐helix and beta‐sheet was calculated. The test samples were treated on the exfoliated corneocyte, and the degree of change was checked. RESULT: Arginine–fructose–glucose (AFG)‐enriched extract of red ginseng was effective in changing the keratin structure and was superior to humectants such as glycerin. However, arginine, mono sugar were not effective, and the AFG form in which two sugars were bound to one amino acid could perform its function. CONCLUSION: The present study suggests that AFG, when applied to cosmetics, is expected to improve skin texture in a different way from existing moisturizers represented by glycerin by reducing the alpha‐helix structure of corneocyte keratin.