“…Methods: Fifteen elite climbers performed intermittent high-force high-velocity campus board exercise, and two bouldering traverses, hard and easy. …”
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“…In analyzing the training regimens of our climbers for longer than 10 years, we conclude that intensive finger training (eg, campus board training) can lead to early-onset osteoarthritis of the hand. …”
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“…Therefore, the former can be used as a conditioning activity before an explosive climbing exercise such as the Power Slap on a campus board.…”
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“…Six percent of climbers reported the correct safe age to start double dyno campus board training. Roughly 18% of athletes identified growth plate injuries exclusively as a stress fracture, whereas 29.2% of those climbers self-reported as informed about finger growth plate injuries, but only 7.4% of climbers who self-reported as uninformed answered this question correctly. …”
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“…The purpose of this study was to determine a performance-enhancing effect of post-activation potentiation (PAP) stimulus on climbing-specific upper body power exercises, measured by the IRCRA Power Slap test on a campus board. Two groups of climbers performed the test under one of two conditions: without initial pre-loading (control group) or after 5RM (repetition maximum) pull-ups (PAP group). …”
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