Filamentous fungi in artisanal cheeses: A problem to be avoided or a market opportunity?

The microbial diversity of artisanal cheeses has been ever more extensively explored over recent years. Many new studies have been particularly focused on the detection and identification of fungi associated with cheese rinds. This is not surprising given that the composition and abundance of fungi on the cheese surface can significantly contribute to desirable sensory qualities, while also contributing to defects, particularly during ripening, and risks associated with the production of mycotoxins. Here we critically review the impact of fungi on the quality of artisanal cheeses, as well as the risks associated with the presence of particular species or strains with specific phenotypes. Ultimately, we address the question; should fungi be predominantly considered villains when it comes to artisanal cheese safety or could their presence be better exploited by producers in order to generate innovative products with greater added value? Such discussions will be increasingly important from the perspective of the future commercialization and regulation of artisanal cheeses that frequently contain a high abundance of moulds.