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Evolution of basic equations for nearshore wave field
In this paper, a systematic, overall view of theories for periodic waves of permanent form, such as Stokes and cnoidal waves, is described first with their validity ranges. To deal with random waves, a method for estimating directional spectra is given. Then, various wave equations are introduced ac...
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| Formato: | Online Artículo Texto |
| Lenguaje: | English |
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The Japan Academy
2013
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| Acceso en línea: | https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3611954/ https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23318680 http://dx.doi.org/10.2183/pjab.89.34 |